2315 Durant Avenue, Berkeley, CA 94704
If swimming in Julia Morgan's Hearst Castle masterpiece requires a $500 foundation membership and a $1,000 reservation for a single evening, her other great pool is considerably more accessible. The Berkeley City Club — known locally as "The Little Castle" for its unmistakable resemblance to its San Simeon cousin — has an indoor pool open to hotel guests year-round, and rooms start at a fraction of what you would spend on a single night's swim at the Neptune Pool.
Set beneath the original 1920s vaulted ceiling, the pool occupies the entire east wing of the building and features boldly painted ceramic tiles, Moorish storybook arches, and triplets of windows framed by classical columns. The original tilework survives intact, and the whole space is bathed in the kind of golden light that most pools could only dream of. It looks like something from a fever dream in which a Venetian palazzo and a Wes Anderson film set had a very beautiful child.
" It looks like a Venetian palazzo and a Wes Anderson film set had a very beautiful child.
The building was commissioned in 1927 by a group of Berkeley professional women who wanted a clubhouse of their own, funded it entirely themselves, and had Morgan build the whole thing in eleven months. When it opened in 1930 it had over 4,000 members, all women; Amelia Earhart was among the guest speakers. It blends Moorish, Gothic, and Romanesque styles across six storeys and is both a California Historical Landmark and on the National Register of Historic Places.
The indoor pool occupies the entire east wing beneath a vaulted 1920s ceiling, framed by Moorish arches, hand-painted ceramic tiles, and classical columns. Hotel guests can have it almost to themselves in the morning; non-swimmers can admire it from the observation deck above.
Order "An Architect in Paris," a cocktail named for Morgan's years at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts.
French-Californian cooking on the second floor.